Travel

A green turtle rests on the dramatic walls of Bunaken National Marine Park
 

As an avid diver and underwater photographer, my travels have taken me to the farthest regions of the world: bull sharks in Beqa, whale sharks in the Maldives, mantas in Socorro. But there is one region that keeps drawing me back year after year: the Coral Triangle. And this year, I was headed to the renowned Siladen Resort & Spa, a luxurious boutique resort within Bunaken National Marine Park, at the northern tip of the Indonesian island of Sulawesi. I’d heard plenty of buzz about this illustrious island getaway and had set my expectations high for the trip of a lifetime, but the experience itself far exceeded my expectations.

After the long journey to Manado, I was met at the port by a private boat that would be my ocean chariot to the Island. From the moment I stepped aboard, I didn’t have to lift a finger, except to receive my chilled towel and refreshing drink as we cruised into the blue. As the island came into view, we were greeted by a band of staff there to welcome us into their little island paradise.

It became abundantly clear that hospitality was of the utmost importance for this award-winning dive resort, as we were guided through to the beautifully orchestrated reception area and offered welcome drinks and lunch. I took a moment to admire the flawless architectural design, beautifully manicured beach, and welcoming smiles from the staff, and couldn’t help but wonder how such perfection is crafted. But after meeting Siladen’s wonderful managers, Ana and Miguel, I realized it was their genuine care and dedication to the resort that set the tone for their staff’s commitment.
 

Life flourishes amongst the coral growth on Bunaken’s steep walls

Bunaken: Paradise for Photographers

I couldn’t wait to hit the water and set out on my first day of diving, not knowing what to expect, as my time spent in Indonesia seemed vastly different from this unique destination. Bunaken National Marine Park is considered to be the epicenter of marine biodiversity, with around 400 species of coral, thousands of species of fish, and countless invertebrates. But what really sets this region apart are the dramatic walls that stretch down as far as the eye can see (even in perfect 100-feet visibility), which are densely decorated with hard and soft corals.

As an underwater photographer with an insatiable obsession with coral, I was in a constant state of awe and admiration. The colossal barrel sponges jutting out of the slopes left me marveling at their possible millennia of growth, as though I were witnessing history unfold beneath the waves. And with every corner taken, I was overwhelmed by the grandeur of overhangs that towered over me like compressed cave systems. But if all of this wasn’t enough, there were a myriad of turtles soaring in and out of the reef like prehistoric flying carpets. I had been told by numerous friends of the healthy turtle populations in Bunaken, but seeing their sheer numbers firsthand was mind-blowing.
 

Endless photo opportunities of some of the largest coral structures you’ll ever see
 

Towering gorgonian fans pepper the slopes
 

Green turtles fly in and out of the reef in greater numbers than one can imagine

Sublime Surface Intervals

After a stellar day on the reef, I freshened up in my luxurious outdoor shower before heading to Siladen’s daily beachside buffet, where I indulged in fine dining cuisine with sweeping views of glassy ocean and majestic volcanoes. Every meal was hosted with a fresh twist on global themes and cultures, but it was their Italian night that still lingers in my memory—leaving me wondering how they conjured such authentic cuisine in this remote tropical haven.

When I wasn’t lounging by the pool or editing photos in their gorgeous boutique treehouse, I was exploring the outskirts of the island, which host some incredible wildlife encounters. Ana was kind enough to ask a very knowledgeable staff member to guide me through the shallow rock pools, where the elusive algae octopus was filmed for National Geographic’s Secrets of the Octopus. If I had more hours in the day, I would have certainly indulged in their relaxing and restorative day spa, tranquil sunset yoga, or one of the many curated local experiences offered for exploring the region.
 

Siladen Resort and Spa has a beautiful fringing reef, pristine white sand beaches, and flawless surrounding views
 

Fine dining cuisine with breathtaking views—life is good!

Critter Hunting Day and Night

Siladen doesn’t only boast endless sloping reefs and larger-than-life dive experiences, but a smorgasbord of macro magic in and around the region. I was entranced by the multitude of exotic critters encountered on every dive—orangutan shrimp, leaf scorpionfish, ghost pipefish, and more nudibranchs than I could count. These incredible critters were not only found buried in the crevices of the reef, but discovered in abundance throughout fantastic muck dives in the region. Who would have thought one destination could have such a diverse variety of life beneath the surface?
 

A couple of delicate ornate ghost pipefish—one of which is heavily pregnant
 

A tiny crab atop a golden piece of substrate
 

To top it off, I was ecstatic to learn that Siladen offered blackwater dives in the evenings and jumped at the opportunity to have my first ever experience under the cover of darkness. The dive briefing was what really caught my attention, as Siladen’s wonderful dive crew took the time to explain the process behind blackwater diving, as well as the biological science behind the world’s largest vertical migration.

That night, as I took a giant stride into the middle of ocean, with 1,000 feet or more between myself and the ocean floor, I realized I was about to embark on a life-changing adventure. Through the aid of powerful torches beaming down from the boat, millions of critters rose from the depths in all shapes and sizes. It was as if I was drifting through space, accompanied by larval-stage critters in place of stars!
 

A paper nautilus floats near the surface of the water, creating a beautiful reflective mirror on a blackwater dive
 

A larval-stage flounder captured on a blackwater dive

A lionfish cruises the shallows of Bunaken National Marine Park

Farewell, but Definitely not Goodbye!

Throughout my stay at Siladen, I met several guests who return on an annual basis to this award-winning boutique resort, and there is no doubt in my mind that they have their priorities in order. After all, who wouldn’t want to spend their time away on a lush tropical island with white sandy beaches and a healthy fringing reef, endless exciting dive sites on your doorstep, fine dining cuisine and the chance to relax around every corner, all under the care of attentive staff and flawless management. I hope to return to this island paradise in the near future, and cannot thank Ana and Miguel enough for making this incredible dive trip an unforgettable experience.
 

Another turtle photobombs a coral portrait on the amazing walls of the marine park
 

About the Author: Talia Greis, a self-taught underwater photographer from Sydney, Australia, developed a deep appreciation for ocean life while growing up in the coastal eastern suburbs. Her passion for the sea took root during a transformative dive at Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia. This experience opened her eyes to the vibrant and diverse underwater world, sparking an intense desire to capture its beauty. To see more of her work, visit www.taliagreisphotography.com.