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Wakatobi’s thriving reefs and abundance of marine life will take your breath away
 

Located at the epicenter of coral reef biodiversity and within the UNESCO World Heritage listed Wakatobi Marine Park lies Wakatobi Dive Resort. Truthfully, in all our years of diving and undertaking assignments, there are few places that compare—Wakatobi is a garden of eden, above and below the surface.

The 5,500-square-mile Wakatobi National Marine Park is the largest barrier reef in Indonesia, second only to Australia’s Great Barrier Reef. Its enchanting submarine landscape adorned with an abundance of tropical coral reefs ranging from dramatic drop-offs, exuberant pinnacles and magical coral gardens provide the perfect habitat for a superabundance of marine life to flourish.

With over 40 reefs on its doorstep—and no other divers for at least 100 miles—Wakatobi Dive Resort is a playground for unhurried exploration, relaxation, and creativity—and a must for the underwater imaging enthusiast. Let’s dive in!
 

A bird’s-eye view of Wakatobi Dive Resort, showcasing one of its premier dive sites—its stunning house reef

All Hail the Pygmies

“We will definitely find them here,” affirms our dive guide, Ady, as we descend Wakatobi’s crystalline waters to a dive site affectionately and aptly known as “Magnifica.” As we approach a tiny forest of hydroids clustered with the delicate calcareous alga, Halimeda, Ady gazes with intensity. “They are here,” he signals underwater. Clearing my mask and squinting to gain focus, I see there is not one but four Pontoh’s pygmy seahorse (Hippocampus pontohi). He gestures with his hands: “Take your pick.”

As an underwater shooter, I am aware of the challenges these tiny reef residents encounter, especially when around photographers. Their biggest challenge: Because they are so charismatic, everyone wants to photograph them, and with no eyelids for protection from focus or video lights, how can they continue to thrive as more divers and photographers seek out their company?

Ady signals: “Five shots only, OK?” In order to protect these charismatic critters from damage caused by divers and photographers, we support the resort’s strict pygmy seahorse Code of Conduct, aimed at reducing the impact divers have on these rare animals. There is strictly no touching or manipulation of the seahorses or their habitat to better position them, no lights whatsoever for videography or to aid your camera’s focus, five flashes maximum of your strobes, and caution must be shown regarding your camera position and exhaling bubbles. These guys are tiny, and Pontoh’s pygmy seahorse is one the smallest, reaching a maximum of 17 millimeters in length from the tip of the tail to the snout. One large exhale is enough to send the pygmy to outer space!

Alongside Pontoh’s pygmy seahorse you will also find Bargibant’s pygmy seahorse (Hippocampus bargibanti) in pink and yellow, and Denise’s pygmy seahorse (Hippocampus denise).
 

Tiny and charismatic: Pontoh’s pygmy seahorse
 

These tiny reef residents are in abundance here, not only because of this Code of Conduct but because of the resort’s conservation-based business model and the creation of one of the world’s largest privately protected marine reserves. Established in 1997, the Wakatobi Collaborative Reef Conservation Program created an economically viable alternative for local communities to disengage from destructive fishing practices and instead protect their reefs and enhance their livelihoods. Today, 17 local communities respect and actively protect more than 20 kilometers (12 miles) of pristine coral reefs. In exchange, the resort employs hundreds of local people and provides resort revenue to these villages, giving the local community a sense of ownership and pride in their local marine environment.
 

Coral Candy Store

These protections mean Wakatobi’s coral reefs are really thriving. The dive sites here are varied, and as the current replenishes key nutrients, a profusion of coral species explode. The clear waters keep a warm but not too warm temperature each year, maintaining the coral biodiversity. Incredibly, the Wakatobi area is believed to have 750 of the world’s total 850 coral reef species.

The underwater landscape here certainly is arresting. At dive sites like “Roma,” huge gardens of rose and cabbage coral dominate the seascape, making for dramatic wide-angle photography. Taking its name from the 38 gorgonian sea fans here, at the dive site “Fan 38,” giant gorgonians dwarf divers against a sea of cobalt blue. From memory, the gorgonian fan pictured was fan number 24!
 

A diver explores the vast expanse of rose coral at the aptly named “Roma” dive site
 

A diver dwarfed by one of Wakatobi’s stunning giant gorgonian sea fans

Crocodile Tears

One of many reliable photographic subjects at Wakatobi is the crocodilefish. This “slacker of the sea” is an expert in laziness, and spends its time mainly conserving energy and avoiding any unnecessary movement. Because crocodilefish are masters at mimicking their environment, they can sometimes be difficult to spot—and also photograph with a wide-angle lens. But with the most beautiful eyes in the ocean, we think a macro lens does them the most justice!
 

The ocean’s most beautiful eyes: one of the many resident crocodilefish at Wakatobi

Clowning Around

No dive destination is complete without the gorgeous anemonefish and Wakatobi has many different species to photograph. On most dive sites, you will find these bold, curious, yet territorial little fishes, vigorously defending their anemone home from intruders.
 

Anemonefish on one of Wakatobi’s pretty coral gardens
 

Nemo and his dad pose for a photo!

Intelligent Aliens

The resident cuttlefish found at the “Zoo” dive site are another enticing photo subject at Wakatobi. These sentient and socially aware beings are the kings of deceit, camouflaging themselves and blending in perfectly with the seascape. We almost passed right by this one!
 

This gorgeous cuttlefish was so well camouflaged, we only noticed him at the last minute. Even though we arrived uninvited, he gave us a warm welcome and changed his outfit for the occasion!

Flippered Friends of the Sea

The resort’s house reef is a dive site to rival the best and one where you can independently explore at any time on scuba or snorkel. Some of its big attractions are the huge resident green sea turtles that find their resting places in the caverns and ledges of the drop-off. When looking to photograph these flippered friends, keep an eye in the blue, as they tend to glide in like a jumbo jet coming in to land!

Teeming with vibrant healthy corals, seagrass meadows and a diversity of other marine species, Wakatobi’s house reef is a dive site not to be missed and is just as enchanting for a sunset snorkel.
 

Just two of the many friendly green sea turtles that make Wakatobi’s house reef home

Other Friendly Finds

There are countless photo subjects at Wakatobi. If you take the time to slow down on your dives and be patient, you’ll find a myriad of other creatures to photograph. Tiny candy crabs bury themselves deep into their soft coral homes, painted frogfish bask in the passing current, while leaf scorpionfish stand proud just begging for their photograph to be taken.
 

A pink painted frogfish, always a special find on any dive site
 

Unlike many leaf scorpionfish, which like to hide, this subject was just begging for its photo to be taken and was found in the perfect photographic position
 

A tiny candy crab nestled itself deep inside its coral candy home

Why Wakatobi for Photographers?

Private Dive Guides and Private Boats

As a photographer, having the ability to book a “Private Dive Experience Manager” allows you to go at your own pace and to personalize your diving and photography experience. For that added extra, you can also add a private boat.

A Camera Room to Be Envied

Many of the guests that visit Wakatobi have a camera in hand, and the resort prides itself in providing top-class facilities and support for photographers, both at the resort and on its luxury yacht, Pelagian. The resort’s climate-controlled and spaciously equipped camera room has everything a photographer needs. Along with great lighting and voltage regulated power, the large individual workstations and storage shelves provide ample room for all your equipment. If only we had a camera room like this at home!
 

Hippocampus bargibanti is another gorgeous variety of pygmy seahorse found on Wakatobi’s reefs
 

Want to Up Your Game?

Whether you’re a pro or a beginner, the resort offers underwater photography coaching services hosted by their resident photo pro, Adrienne Gittus. Adrienne can cover a range of topics, from underwater photography 101 to post-processing, and can even tailor something specific to your individual needs and photography level. If you are a new shooter, one-on-one photo instruction can help you progress quickly in underwater image-making.

There is also a small selection of compact cameras and strobes for hire—very handy if you happen to have an equipment failure. You do not want to miss out on the imaging opportunities here!

Unhurried, Unrivaled, Luxury

There is no doubt that Wakatobi Dive Resort is the most unassumingly luxurious dive resort we have visited. The high level attention to the finer details of the overall guest experience, from arrival to diving to dining, is second to none. With a competent team of fun, friendly and professional local and international staff, you can’t help but feel spoiled at every interaction. You can even choose how soft or firm you want your bed to be! During our stay, we asked guests who had returned many times why they keep coming back to Wakatobi, and their answer was simple: “It feels like home, and at home, I can relax.” We couldn’t agree more.
 

Another soft coral reefscape bursting with color
 

Healthy hard coral as far as the eye can see

Planning Your Visit to Wakatobi

Getting There

Wakatobi Dive Resort is located in a remote part of Southeast Sulawesi, but that doesn’t mean its not a breeze to get to. Easily reached via the resort’s private two-and-a-half-hour guest flight from Bali, all you need to do is get yourself to Denpasar and let the resort do the rest! The resort staff will meet you on your international flight arrival and assist you through the entire process until your feet hit Wakatobi’s white sand.

When to Go

Wakatobi is a year-round dive destination, meaning you can enjoy diving here 365 days of the year. The climate in the region is more arid than other parts of Indonesia and receives less rain. It is also protected by the surrounding reefs and islands, making it comfortable year round, which provides ample dive site options for all weather conditions. From June to October, the wind comes from the east, while December to April sees westerly winds. In July and August, you will find a slight increase in wind, which makes it a little cooler, but very comfortable. We visited the resort at the end of August and experienced comfortable breezes with clear, sunny days and excellent visibility underwater.

Good to Know

The water temperature at Wakatobi is at its warmest in late October, where it can reach 86°F (30°C). The coolest time of year is late August with the water temperature at or around 79°F (26°C). We chose to dive at this time of year and still found it very comfortable in a 3mm wetsuit plus a vest.

If you’re interested to explore a bit further a field, then the resort also offers the luxurious dive yacht, Pelagian. Boasting more space per guest than any other dive yacht of its kind, the liveaboard accommodates a maximum of 10 guests. Look forward to air-conditioning indoor areas, chef-prepared meals, and a well-equipped camera room.
 

One last perfect turtle portrait before we go!
 

About the Authors: Based in Melbourne, Australia, Anita Verde and Peter Marshall have a passion for the planet’s wild places, and through their images and narratives hope to inspire better appreciation and protection of the natural world. When not underwater, you’ll find them on a mountain somewhere. To see more of their work, please visit their website, www.summitstoseasphotography.com.