Travel

A juvenile whitetip reef shark shelters from the strong currents at “Castle Rock”—one of many beloved action-packed dive sites within Komodo National Park
 

We had hardly even set up our dive gear when our vessel—Damai II—slowed. Our dive guide Sandro rushed towards the ship’s railing. “Whales!” he proclaimed with excitement. Sperm whales to be exact. The pod was surfacing ahead, rising and falling in a synchronized rhythm. Their form glistening in the late afternoon light, each surfacing slowly with that familiar blow and plume of mist.

A large female sperm whale, thought to be the “babysitter,” guided three young ones as the rest of the pod hunted deep. Surprisingly, they seemed unhurried. It was only day one, but the bar had already been set for an incredible 10 days aboard the Damai II through Indonesia’s Lesser Sunda Islands. Our journey started from Bima, the largest city in Sumbawa, in the province of West Nusa Tenggara; and ended in Labuan Bajo, on the island of Flores in East Nusa Tenggara.
 

The gorgeous Damai II in the bay at Satonda Island, off the northern coast of Sumbawa
 

Sperm whales made a star appearance on the first day of our trip—setting the tone for what was to come
 

Our trip began at Bima, Sumbawa, West Nusa Tenggara, and ended in Labuan Bajo, Flores, East Nusa Tenggara

Magic in the Muck at Bima

First up on our itinerary was some exploratory muck diving around Bima itself. We had never dived here before, but I would now have to say, it is Indonesia’s most underrated muck diving spot. Everywhere we got in the water delivered the beautiful and the bizarre. Nudibranchs of different colors and species, ghost pipefish, seahorses, snake eels, frogfish, and coconut octopuses. The shallows, in particular, were exceptionally rich—even the elusive wunderpus and mimic octopus made star appearances.
 

A yellow thorny seahorse in disco boogie wonderland in Bima
 

More species found on the black sands in and around Bima (clockwise from top left): painted frogfish, Napoleon snake eel, Chromodoris kuniei nudibranch, and robust ghost pipefish

The Gods of Saleh Bay

Just before dawn, and as the sun’s first rays pierced the indigo blue seas, an encounter like no other beckoned us. The area of Sumbawa’s Saleh Bay is one of very few places in the world where whale sharks choose to congregate, and it is here, beneath proud local fishermen’s fishing platforms, bagan, that giant gods waited for us. For generations, fishermen here have fostered their relationship with the whale sharks in the hope they will be rewarded with a good catch. Each morning as they raise their nets whale sharks visit to feed.

Bagan are used by local fishermen to catch small baitfish—sardines and anchovies mostly. But they’ve also become buffet tables for the ocean’s most majestic, docile yet cumbersome creatures. Here, the fishermen will keep the whale sharks interested for you, sharing with them some of their catch topped up with the whale sharks’ favorite, nutritious krill.
 

A bagan, the wooden fishing platform used by generations of sea nomads, who work these vessels as a way of life
 

Indonesia’s government, in collaboration with the Institut Français and Konservasi Indonesia, are working to create a marine protected area (MPA) here to preserve this unique relationship and foster responsible tourism and a sustainable economy for local communities. The project aims to protect 69,550 hectares, accounting for 59% of the critical habitat for whale sharks in the Saleh Bay area. This work is incredibly important, as it is believed that Saleh Bay boasts the second-largest concentration of whale sharks after West Papua’s Cenderawasih Bay.

As we slip into the indigo seas, three spotty giants emerge from different directions. Nothing quite prepares you for the sheer size of these incredible beings. We spent around four hours with the whale sharks here, but we could have stayed for days. Indonesia is one of very few places in the world where you can scuba dive with whale sharks, but we found the interaction with simply your mask, snorkel, and fins was just as rewarding—and very productive from an underwater image-making perspective.
 

A trio of whale sharks feed beneath the bagans
 

Local fishermen revere the whale sharks as harbingers of good fortune. Hoping for a continued good catch, they pour a slurry of krill into the whale sharks’ mouths

Black Sand and Hot Rocks

From Saleh Bay, the Damai II set its course for Sangeang, an active volcano standing sentinel, guarding the sea. Here, the black sand slopes conceal an array of macro treasures.

Diving at sites like “Hot Rocks” (or “Bubbles” as it’s also named) felt like being on another planet. Fizzing streams of what appeared like champagne released volcanic gases deep from the sea floor. The dramatic contrast of black sand and vibrant and beautiful coral gardens made for an otherworldly seascape, complete with all your star critters.
 

One of Sangeang’s beautiful black sand coral gardens
 

A soft coral candy crab poses amongst its coral home in Sangeang

Manta Majesty

Located in the Lesser Sunda islands between Sumbawa and Flores, and bordering Indonesia’s East Nusa Tenggara and West Nusa Tenggara provinces, Komodo National Park is a biodiversity hotspot both terrestrial and marine. But it is its most famous marine resident—the manta ray—that continues to bewitch divers and underwater shooters year after year.

The park’s southern and central regions are home to several cleaning stations where reef mantas and sometimes oceanic mantas gather for that all-important spa session. Of the places where you can see mantas, the dive site “Mauan” was by far our favorite. It has a wonderful shallow cleaning station with great visibility and light, perfect for photography.

We drop in, and within moments they arrive. Huge and graceful, they glide effortlessly above the reef as we battle the currents. Circling us, they hover above the cleaning station as eager cleaner wrasse pick off parasites from their underbellies. There’s something deeply humbling about locking eyes with an animal that is so massive, intelligent, yet intuitively so gentle. Despite the number of interactions we have had with them over the years, there’s always room for more.
 

At “Mauan,” a manta visits one of the many cleaning stations in Komodo National Park
 

A stunning black manta glides past on its way to the manta day spa for a deep clean

Energetic Reefs

If you’re looking for a shot of adrenaline with your colorful coral, then Komodo is your place—especially if, like us, you choose to visit on a super full moon.

At Castle Rock, think a colossal aquarium, with giant trevallies patrolling clouds of fusiliers, and lots of juvenile whitetip reef sharks sheltering from the current under coral ledges. It appeared to us that these baby reef sharks were thriving here, suggesting that the food web below them—from plankton to small fish—is still intact. That seems to be the positive outcome of the marine protections that have been in place here since the mid-1980s.

Diving in Komodo is pure joy. The currents sweep you along walls and past bommies covered in soft corals and sponges, past turtles, mantas, and more Anthias than you can imagine possible. And no trip to Komodo is complete without the thrilling drift of shooting the “Shotgun.” Here, you are catapulted through a narrow passage of water in the hope of seeing mantas as you fly by. Don’t forget to try and slow down to photograph the friendly schooling bigeye trevallies.
 

The healthy coral gardens at “Crystal Rock,” one of Komodo’s famous dive sites
 

Swarms of tiny fishes engulf a coral bommie near a manta cleaning station in central Komodo
 

What did the turtle say to the batfish? Green sea turtles are a common site at the popular Komodo dive site of “Karang Makassar”
 

Schooling bigeye trevallies pose as we fly by at Komodo’s famed “Shotgun”

Hollow Rock

Rising like a jagged tooth from the surface of the sea, Batu Bolong—meaning “Hollow Rock”—might look like nothing more than a rocky outcrop, but plunge beneath the surface, and you enter a living, breathing reef that explodes with life, color, and movement. Located between the islands of Komodo and Tatawa, this small pinnacle sits at the convergence of powerful oceanic currents. It is these currents that fuel the reef’s abundance, creating a nutrient-rich oasis where corals and marine life can thrive.

It is important not to get too adventurous with your dive plan here. Strong currents hit the dive site on one side or the other, depending on the tide, and you’ll find powerful down-currents on either side, leaving only a small “safe zone” to dive on the leeward side. Of course, the currents here are vital in keeping Batu Bolong intact and thriving, and despite the popularity of this dive site, it is still one of the healthiest, fishiest, and prettiest reefs on our planet.
 

Batu Bolong is a vibrant, dynamic reef teeming with colorful fish life
 

With so many of the world’s coral reefs under immense pressure, Batu Bolong is proof that marine protected areas help keep our oceans intact and thriving

Emerald Seas

With low visibility because of its southern location and nutrient-rich waters, the dive sites in the southern reaches of Komodo National Park are a magical emerald underworld with masses of striking soft coral and feather star gardens.

One of the top dive sites in the park, and often ranked among the best in Indonesia, is “Cannibal Rock.” Located in Horseshoe Bay, just off Rinca Island, in the southern part of Komodo, the area is known for cooler waters and its rich marine life. Home to sea apples and many varieties of nudibranchs and flatworms, alongside schools of fish, the site is alive during rising tides when nutrient-rich waters sweep in, feeding clouds of glass fish.

At the nearby “Yellow Wall,” you also find kaleidoscopic soft coral growth. The wall plunges dramatically into the depths and is dripping in brilliant yellow coral, Tubastraea coral, and decorated with feather stars. Even though the waters here in the south of Komodo are greener, the area is a photographer’s dream.
 

At “Cannibal Rock,” nutrient-rich waters sweep in, feeding clouds of glass fish
 

South Komodo’s Yellow Wall, complete with Tubastrea corals and adorned with feather stars

The Dragons of Rinca

Of course, we couldn’t visit Komodo without going to meet the island’s most famous residents—its fearsome dragons! The park is believed to be home to almost 6,000 Komodo dragons across the islands of Komodo, Rinca, Gili Motong, and certain areas of western and northern Flores. We anchored near Rinca and traded our wetsuits for walking shoes. A few deer and buffalo—some of the dragon’s favorite prey—greeted us as we entered the island, and it wasn’t long before we found the dragons sunning themselves under the trees.

They’re actually bigger than you imagine. They’re muscular and slow-moving—until they’re not! Our naturalist guide helped us keep a respectful distance, wielding a long forked stick for safety. (We were hoping the stick was not just symbolic, but effective!) Ultimately, they appeared totally unthreatening, and we had to be reminded that they do, in fact, eat their children!
 

Don’t be fooled by the sleepy appearance—these guys can run super fast, employing strategic hunting techniques to disarm their prey

The Bima–Labuan Bajo Route with Damai II

While you can dive Komodo National Park on an itinerary in and out of Labuan Bajo, choosing the route beginning in Bima and ending in Labuan Bajo offers a full spectrum of marine encounters that few other Indonesian itineraries can match. With incredible muck diving, exploration, whales sharks, mantas, turtles, baby sharks, and vibrant and healthy coral reefs, you really can’t go wrong.

Damai II feels more like a floating boutique hotel than it does a liveaboard. The vessel caters to just 12 guests, and the cabins are incredibly generous. Dining is gourmet and “a la carte,” with an all-day restaurant where you can have the chef prepare anything your heart desires. There’s even an on-board massage therapist!
 

The writer on board with team Damai II
 

But don’t let the comforts fool you. Damai II is built for serious diving. On the large dive deck, you will find spacious, personalized dive stations, each with their own large camera rinse tank. Your diving time is unlimited, and there is a maximum 4:1 guest-to-dive guide ratio. Dive Damai runs some of the most varied and exploratory itineraries throughout Indonesia, and the team prides themselves on finding new and interesting places to explore.

There is a well-designed camera room with more space than everybody on board could need, and an attentive crew of 18 plus a cruise director who handles your gear like nothing you have ever experienced. Trust us, you won’t be putting on a soggy swimsuit here! Between your dives, the Damai II crew keep the good vibes free flowing: singing, music, drinks, warm towels, and snacks appear exactly when you need them!

For more information on the Dive Damai fleet’s itineraries throughout Indonesia, visit www.dive-damai.com.
 

What a perfect way to end! Celebratory end-of-trip drinks on the Damai II’s top deck as a million flying foxes fly from the mangroves at sunset
 

About the Authors: Based in Melbourne, Australia, Anita Verde and Peter Marshall have a passion for the planet’s wild places, and through their images and narratives hope to inspire better appreciation and protection of the natural world. When not underwater, you’ll find them on a mountain somewhere. To see more of their work, please visit their website, www.summitstoseasphotography.com.