Travel

Cape Kri’s iconic sweetlips always seem to be around. These reside at depth—around 115 feet—in colder yet very clear water
 

A few months ago, I was listening to the Scuba GOAT podcast when host Matt Waters remarked there were two destinations he wouldn’t recommend to new divers: the Galápagos and Raja Ampat. Not because of currents, but because they set the bar too high for marine life encounters. This sentiment echoed the many superlatives I had heard over the years about Raja Ampat. Yet, despite 17 years of diving, my wife Léna and I had never made it to this remote Indonesian archipelago.

For our first visit, we chose to stay with Papua Diving Resorts, and I want to thank their team for their warm hospitality and a truly memorable stay. We visited both of their properties on Kri Island—Kri Eco Resort and Sorido Bay Resort. This article focuses on Kri Eco Resort; I’ll cover Sorido Bay in a forthcoming report.
 

Papua Diving’s sleek boats comfortably seat six divers, two guides and the boat crew

The Resort

Raja Ampat—meaning “Four Kings” in Bahasa Indonesia—is divided into four main island groups: Waigeo, Batanta, Salawati, and Misool. Kri Island is located in the north, nestled in the heart of the Dampier Strait between Batanta and Waigeo. Kri Eco Resort lies in the northeast corner of the island. The journey there begins with a flight into Sorong, West Papua, followed by a scenic two-hour speedboat transfer that introduces you to the region’s lush seascape.

Kri Eco Resort offers charming overwater bungalows constructed in traditional Papuan style with locally sourced materials. There are three accommodation types, all providing ample space for camera gear and enough charging outlets for photographic and diving equipment. There’s no air-conditioning—true to the resort’s eco ethos—but we found the electric fans more than sufficient.

We stayed in one of the lovely Papuan Water Cottages, located on the main jetty just steps from the dive deck. The Superior and Deluxe Water Cottages are accessed via a short walk from the main restaurant and lounge. While the Deluxe Water Cottages offer en-suite bathrooms, guests with heavy photo gear may prefer the closer Papuan or Superior Water Cottages.
 

A panoramic shot shows the spacious interior of our cottage, with two beds and two large tables for our abundant photographic equipment
 

The restaurant, which overlooks the water, is a short walk from the Superior and Deluxe Water Cottages
 

Meals are served buffet-style at communal tables in the waterfront restaurant—a great setting to swap stories with fellow travelers and staff. The food was consistently excellent, offering a mix of local cuisine and Western options. When not diving, we relaxed on beanbags and lounge chairs overlooking the Dampier Strait—these are installed on a terrace off the main jetty, ideally positioned to admire the sunsets and sunrises alike. Wi-Fi worked surprisingly well in both the lounge and restaurant, and our Telkomsel SIM cards offered good 4G coverage even when at sea.

While we came for the diving, we met several non-divers who were having an equally enjoyable time, with options like snorkeling, kayaking, paddleboarding, jungle trekking, and birdwatching. We found the staff to be attentive and helpful, the service was excellent and you even get free daily laundry, so that the rare pieces of clothing you stuck in your dive gear remain in good condition throughout the trip!
 

Kri Eco Resort from above: The dive deck is at the very edge of the drop-off, followed by the lounge area, and then the Papuan cottages

The Diving

Kri Eco Resort is perfectly positioned within a 5 to 20-minute boat ride from some of the Dampier Strait’s most iconic dive sites: Cape Kri, Chicken Reef, Mike’s Point, Sardine Reef, Blue Magic, Friwenbonda, and Sawandarek, just to name a few. Half-day and full-day excursions can also be arranged to reach more distant treasures like Melissa’s Garden or the Fam Islands.

Guests can dive up to four times a day: a double-tank trip in the morning, a third boat dive in the afternoon, and a night or sunset dive. The only exception is Saturday, which is the staff’s rest day. However, diving doesn’t stop—guests are free to explore the house reef, right off the jetty, which is teeming with coral life and easily accessible for a photogenic self-guided dive.
 

The corals just below the jetty at Kri Eco Resort are absolutely stunning

Wide-Angle Life

During a 2012 survey, marine biologist Dr. Gerry Allen recorded an astonishing 374 fish species on a single dive at Cape Kri. That record still stands today—and it’s easy to see why. Needless to say, this article would be too long if I tried to list all the species that we saw during our trip! One thing is for sure: Raja Ampat lives up to the hype as one of the world’s premier wide-angle underwater photography destinations. From oceanic manta rays with 15-foot wingspans to densely packed schools of sweetlips, batfish, and surgeonfish, the volume and diversity of marine life is impressive—and that’s without mentioning the famed Technicolor reefs. You truly need a fisheye lens to take it all in.
 

Another site well known for resident sweetlips is Sawandarek village, a 25-minute boat ride from Kri Eco Resort. You’ll also find super-sized turtles, giant clams, and lots of snappers here
 

While diving Sardines one afternoon, we stumbled upon the largest school of batfish that I had ever seen—they didn’t all fit in the frame!
 

During a dive at Barracuda Point, we saw not only barracudas, but also a motionless—but very much awake—ambush predator: a tasselled wobbegong shark
 

Careful what you wish for! With so much fish life around, baitfish sometimes blanket entire coral bommies, making it hard to see the reef, or your model!
 

A Raja Ampat trip wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Melissa’s Garden, an underwater eden named after Max Ammer’s daughter

Macro Life

It goes without say that Raja Ampat has its share of macro treasures, too—nudibranchs, pygmy seahorses, and all sorts of small crustaceans, including mantis shrimps and more. My wife Léna brought her macro lens to capture a few of these, but we both ended up focusing on wide-angle opportunities, given the current-rich conditions. Still, if you’re a macro enthusiast, you will find plenty to enjoy—just let your dive guide know what you’re looking for.
 

While diving Cape Kri, we saw all sorts of species, from huge oceanic mantas to tiny Denise’s pygmy seahorses
 

It’s probably not the best idea to try and shoot supermacro when the current is flowing: Fish portraits are an easier way to make use of your macro lens!
 

If you must have your muck diving shot while staying in Kri, ask for a night dive at Saporkren

Currents

Underwater photographers have a love-hate relationship with currents, but these are an essential ingredient for the most biodiverse coral reefs. Particularly in Raja Ampat, currents feed exuberant fan corals, attract dense schools of fish, and bring in large pelagics. We always felt safe with Papua Diving’s guides, who provided excellent briefings, including expected currents; they would then jump in the water to check the current before every dive, adjusting the plan as necessary.

On one occasion, we did change sites because there wasn’t enough current for the show we had come to see. I am referring to a memorable sunset dive off Sorido Wall (adjacent to Cape Kri), where we began with moderate current, but our guide Arnold signaled us to wait; the show was about to start. A few minutes later, I was reef-hooked in ripping currents, my memory card enriched with dozens of high-adrenaline shots, with large barracudas hanging just behind, using my silhouette as shelter from the flowing water. Just to be clear: We asked for this, as the combination of sunset and flowing water made for gathering of large school of fish, with giant trevallies, emperor fish and barracudas hunting right in front of us!

If you’re a wide-angle shooter, I can’t recommend enough that you prioritize sunset dives over night dives, as lots of fish movement takes place when the ambient light reduces. If you’re comfortable dealing with strong currents, let your dive guide know and you might be in for a special show!
 

The most abundant gatherings of fish we saw were towards the end of the afternoon and at sunset
 

Four barracudas stationed just behind me, for protection against the ripping current

Reef Health

In December 2024, significant coral bleaching was reported to impact various areas in Raja Ampat, including the Dampier Strait, and was documented by several photographers. Whilst we did see some bleached corals during our stay in late February 2025 (mostly in the shallows), the reefs we visited were still vibrant and teeming with life. This issue won’t go away by itself though, and bleaching events are a dire reminder that we need coordinated action to tackle global warming, as rising sea temperatures are a major factor for coral stress.
 

Healthy corals at Sawandarek, at a depth of about 50 feet
 

Different coral species vary in their tolerance to warmer water: This bleached anemone at New Reef was sitting amongst healthy corals

Conservation in Action

Temperature rise isn’t the only factor threatening coral reefs. Polluted runoff and unsustainable fishing practices also stress coral ecosystems, making them less resilient to heatwaves. This means local conservation efforts can have a direct and meaningful impact on the reefs of Raja Ampat.

To better understand what can be done to turn the tide, we spoke with Max Ammer, the Dutch explorer who pioneered diving in Raja Ampat back in the 1990s. The founder of Papua Diving Resorts, Max has been a passionate conservationist ever since he first set foot on Kri Island. Kri Eco Resort is best described as an “eco-friendly” resort, going to great lengths to minimize its environmental footprint, from using sustainably sourced building materials to implementing an inland wastewater treatment system that prevents pollution of the surrounding reef.

Beyond the conservation-minded operation of its two resorts, Papua Diving empowers local communities through education and job creation. Their hospitality training center teaches local Papuans everything from finance and cooking to maintenance and sustainability. They also run a woodworking and boatbuilding workshop and provide training in diving and underwater photography. The team even built a much-needed primary school on Batanta Island, which had been without one for over 20 years. What’s more, Max is personally leading reforestation efforts in West Papua, where native fruit tree plantations are helping to restore land degraded by slash-and-burn practices—and providing locals with a sustainable source of income.

Back on Kri, Papua Diving’s Raja Ampat Research Center supports scientists and conservationists studying the region’s biodiversity, offering accommodation and facilities for fieldwork. One standout initiative is the reintroduction of captive-bred leopard (zebra) sharks into the wild.

Papua Diving is an inspiring example of how tourism dollars can directly support local communities while enabling meaningful, long-term conservation.
 

Partner aquariums from Australia and the US ship zebra shark eggs to Kri Island. Pups grow in successive water tanks until they are big enough to be reintroduced into the wild
 

Another global issue has now reached even remote Raja Ampat: plastic pollution. Over the past two years, I’ve seen floating plastic debris of all shapes and sizes appear at some of Indonesia’s most pristine dive sites—and sadly, Raja Ampat is no longer an exception. While we didn’t encounter plastic on every dive, the debris drifted in and out with the currents.

Cleanup and waste processing are essential responses, but lasting change requires political will. Papua Diving is contributing to the broader solution, advocating for stronger environmental policies and engaging with top-level government officials to help address plastic pollution at its root.
 

Photogenic coral fans are found just below the surface, under the walls of a limestone island, at a site called Friwenbonda, accessible within a 20-minute boat ride

Planning Your Trip to Raja Ampat

How to Dive: Liveaboard or land-based? On the one hand, a liveaboard allows you to cover multiple dive regions in a single journey, and with over 200 boats cruising these waters during high season, there’s no shortage of options. On the other hand, the Dampier Strait is an expansive diving playground, home to many of Raja Ampat’s top dive sites, including Cape Kri and Melissa’s Garden. We figured this area alone would keep us well occupied during a two-week stay.

In hindsight, I’m glad we made that call. With over 30 dive sites accessible from the resort, and daily dive plans tailored by experienced local guides, we had the flexibility to adapt to changing weather. On more than one occasion, we zipped past slower-moving liveaboards, grateful to have the freedom to respond to the day’s light, currents, or crowd levels rather than stick to a predetermined itinerary. As a photographer, I place high value on the ability to return to a great site multiple times in different conditions. Being just minutes from Cape Kri meant we could dive this iconic location again and again—often with no other boats in sight.

When to Go: October to April is considered high season in Raja Ampat: Seas are generally calm, and plankton blooms attract mantas, particularly from November to March. From June to September, windier conditions can make boat rides a little choppy, and this period is avoided by liveaboard operators. However, visibility is often at its best during these months.

We dove in the high season and made the most of the manta action, encountering both oceanic and reef mantas at Blue Magic, Manta Sandy, and Manta Ridge—and even twice at Cape Kri, which isn’t typically known for manta sightings. Then again, Raja Ampat is said to be the only place on Earth where manta populations are growing—at a rate of 10 percent per year.
 

Cape Kri is a wonderful site for many things, but it’s not known for oceanic mantas. We must have been lucky—twice!
 

The main trade-offs during high season were variable visibility—ranging from about 30 to 80 feet during our stay—and an increase in boat traffic. That said, careful planning by Papua Diving often allowed us to skip the crowds. Blue Magic was understandably the most sought-after site due to visiting oceanic mantas. One morning, after spotting four boats already on-site, our guides changed plans on the fly. We returned later that day and spent a magical 40 minutes with three oceanic mantas—all to ourselves.

Having photographed mantas to our hearts’ content, I’m now curious to return during the low season—when most liveaboards have departed but land-based diving from Papua Diving resorts remains fully operational. Thanks to their location on the tip of Kri, there’s always one side of the island sheltered from the prevailing winds.
 

If you love mantas, then definitely consider coming during the high season. At a site called Manta Ridge, we were reef-hooked to avoid being pulled by a down current, while six reef manta rays minded their business around us (four of them visible in this photo), often approaching us within arm’s length
 

Nearby Manta Sandy is another dive site where the number of divers present at any point in time is strictly limited. While this is great for obvious reasons, the underwater wall delimiting where divers can stay is simply too far from the cleaning station for productive wide-angle photography
 

Our first visit to Raja Ampat fully lived up to its reputation. The reefs here are among the richest on the planet, and diving them alongside a team so deeply committed to conservation—and so intimately familiar with the local sites—made the experience all the more meaningful. If you’re passionate about underwater image-making, I highly recommend basing yourself at Kri Eco Resort. It gives you access to a diverse range of world-class dive sites with the flexibility to revisit your favorites under different conditions. By choosing Kri Eco Resort—or the more luxurious Sorido Bay Resort, also managed by Papua Diving—you’re doing more than just booking a dive trip. You’re directly contributing to meaningful conservation efforts that help protect Raja Ampat’s fragile marine ecosystems.
 

Beautiful corals at Citrus Ridge, in the southwest corner of Gam Island
 

About the Author: Nicolas Remy is an Australia-based pro shooter and founder of online underwater photography school and community, The Underwater Club, with members in 18 countries. He serves as an ambassador for Nauticam and Mares, and chairs the jury of the prestigious DPG Masters photo competition. Nicolas’ images have been widely published in print and digital media, and have won over 40 international photo awards. To see more images by Nicolas and his wife Léna, visit their website, www.nicolaslenaremy.com.