Travel

One of Komodo’s many green turtles: This young one is resting on a spectacular reef under the midday sun
 

As the sun plunges below the horizon and the sky reveals its pretty hues of deep orange, it dawns on us: We have done this before. People say: “Never go back. It is never quite as good as your first time”; and for some places, there is truth in that. But as a million flying foxes create a hypnotic pattern in a coordinated dance across the evening sky, we are reminded of why we are here—again!

We are in Komodo for the fourth time since 2018. Its waters provide a safe environment for hundreds of species of coral, sponges and bony fishes, alongside crustaceans, turtles, manta ray, sharks and numerous invertebrates—all attracted by nutrient-rich waters and frequently ferocious currents. There are over 50 dive sites in the Komodo area, and almost anywhere you descend is an amazing place to dive. Yet, despite its immense popularity, this land of Jurassic origins continues to lure us with its beauty and wonderful opportunities for underwater image-making.
 

A very small portion of the million or so flying foxes that depart the island of Kalong at sunset

Jurassic Park

Located in the Lesser Sunda islands between Sumbawa and Flores, and bordering Indonesia’s East Nusa Tenggara and West Nusa Tenggara provinces, Komodo National Park is a biodiversity hotspot, both terrestrial and marine. The park was founded in 1980 with the original purpose to protect wild populations of the world’s largest lizard, the formidable Komodo dragon. But, as the importance of the region’s unique marine biodiversity was realized, 113,000 hectares of marine reserve was added to form what we now know as the Komodo Biosphere Reserve and National Park.

A UNESCO World Heritage site for good reason, the park is believed to be home to almost 6,000 dragons across the islands of Komodo, Rinca, Gili Motong and some areas of western and northern Flores. Getting up close and personal with the Komodo dragon is one of the many reasons visitors come to the region. Yet while Komodo’s top side attractions are certainly worthy of the effort, it’s the magic that lies beneath that keeps us coming back.
 

The world’s largest lizard, and possibly its most venomous, the Komodo dragon

Supernatural Rock

It’s not long until we settle into the rhythm of the sea and descend on Komodo’s most famous and most supernatural dive site of all: Batu Bolong. It’s a vision so majestic that I find myself unconsciously edging backwards as if that would somehow help me fit the entire reef into my field of view.

Meaning “Hollow Rock” in Indonesian, diving this exposed rock pinnacle can be magical—or just plain thrilling! Strong currents hit the site on one side or the other, depending on the tide, and you’ll find powerful down-currents on either side, leaving only a small “safe zone” to dive on the leeward side. “Haiti Hati” (be careful), our dive guide Rian says. It pays not to get too adventurous with your dive plan here! The reef is in fabulous condition as the aforementioned currents fuel a mind-blowing diversity of marine life and coral species. Gorgeous Anthias boogie in the current, Tubastraea corals bloom, pelagic fishes like the Napoleon wrasse cruise along the current lines, while hawksbill turtles and giant moray eels make this place their home. Along with the kaleidoscope of color, an array of fish species make this site ever more spectacular when the current is super energetic.
 

Anthias boogie in the current at Batu Bolong
 

A hawksbill turtle comes into land on the wall of Batu Bolong
 

A huge green moray eel guards his territory on the slope of Komodo’s most famous dive site, Batu Bolong

Manta Magic

One of the key draw cards of diving in Komodo are of course the manta rays. While there are several sites where mantas can be found, the nutrient-rich waters of Manta Alley offer one of the most reliable interactions. You’ll find these curious, majestic and sentient beings often feeding in shallow water or at their day spa deep at the cleaning station. Like huge hang gliders at the surface, their mouths are wide open as they enjoy the nutritious, plankton-rich waters. It is as if we have entered a manta mega restaurant! The site also boasts other marine life, including schools of fusiliers, triggerfish, and large wrasses.
 

The majestic and sentient manta ray, a favorite sight amongst divers visiting Komodo

Shooting the Cauldron

One of the most fun and eagerly anticipated dives of any Komodo trip is the Shotgun. We back-roll into crystal-clear blue waters at one of Komodo’s most tranquil settings, a white, sandy bottom dotted with coral bommies, covered in small fish with passing whitetip sharks. But, as the current draws us into the cauldron, we are quickly reminded that something special is about to happen. The excitement and expectation builds, and things start to move much faster from here.

Our dive guide Rian signals it’s time to go. We expel the air from our BCDs in anticipation of being shot head first and up towards the surface. Before we know it, we are catapulted through a narrow passage of water—this is the Shotgun. As we fly through, we look ahead in the hope of seeing mantas hovering effortlessly in the current, but it’s not meant to be today. This thrilling drift dive is almost over before it’s even started!
 

Turtle Haven

A notable change since our last visit to Komodo is that there seem to have been an increase in the number of turtles throughout the park. Hawksbill turtles were common on most sites and green sea turtles have populated the dive site Taka Makassar, alongside their manta ray friends.

Some of the green sea turtles have lived long lives and they show their age—their shells, once vibrant, now scarred and faded, covered with algae, a testament to their long lives at sea. We were even fortunate enough to spend some time with an old loggerhead that was not at all perturbed by our presence—unsurprising, as it had likely seen many a diver come and go over decades of life.
 

A battle-scarred loggerhead turtle takes a no doubt much deserved rest on the bottom

Fishy Pinnacle

Subject to strong currents, Crystal Rock is a seamount in open water, covered by a variety of corals, sponges and gorgonians that often become exposed at low tide making the tip of the pinnacle visible from the surface. This site has very good visibility and is very, very fishy. Peeking under huge table corals, you might come face to face with whitetip reef sharks, while schools of batfish, giant trevallies, fusiliers and surgeonfish block the sun. Be sure to dive here when the current is pushing for the fishiest action.
 

A small whitetip reef shark shelters beneath a huge table coral
 

More vibrant and healthy corals and fish life at Crystal Rock

Secret Garden

North of Padar Bay lies a huge split rock. Beneath it lies a magical, emerald underworld covered with masses of striking soft and black coral bushes that have become home to giant frogfish galore—the most we have seen on a single dive site! Here, on its sandy slopes you’ll also find countless nudibranch species, pygmy cuttlefish and numerous other macro photography opportunities. However, be sure to keep an eye on the blue for passing schools of mobula rays, a common encounter at this site.
 

The characterful face of a giant frogfish, one of many encountered around Secret Garden
 

A gorgeous anemone shrimp stares right into the camera from an anemone at Secret Garden

The Land of Brilliant Vistas

When you’re visiting Komodo, it’s easy to focus on the majesty of the ocean—after all, that's why we’re here, right? It is only as the day of diving ends that we look around and begin to appreciate the magnificent landscape of Gili Lawa. We board our dive tender, approach the island and surrender to the allure of the land. By the time we climb to the top of Gili Lawa’s impressive viewpoint, Komodo’s rugged coastline is bathed in a soft evening glow—confirming its status as one of Indonesia’s most incredible landscapes. At the end of every dive day here, you are rewarded with a riot of sunset colors lighting up the skies.
 

Dive boats shelter in a bay during one of Komodo’s spectacular sunsets

Practicalities

When to Dive Komodo

While Komodo can be dived year-round, the best time is generally between June and October when visibility is at its best (80–100 feet). From December to March, operators tend to dive only the southern reaches where water temperatures are cooler and visibility is around 30–50 feet. We visited towards the end of August and experienced calm seas and good visibility on most sites. Water temperatures at the northern sites at this time are around 80°F, while some southern sites are considerably cooler, dropping to as low as 70°F. Be sure to bring enough neoprene for the cooler southern dive sites.
 

A diver exploring an incredible cabbage coral grove on one of Komodo’s amazing reefs

How to Dive Komodo

While the Komodo region can be dived via land-based operators out of Labuan Bajo in Flores, long boat rides are often necessary to reach the park’s best dive sites. The region therefore lends itself well to a liveaboard-style trip, which ensures jaw-dropping topside scenery and superior access to the park’s impressive dive sites.

Most vessels embark and disembark guests from Labuan Bajo, just a short hour-long flight from Bali. For this trip, we were hosted aboard the gorgeous Panda liveaboard. Launched in 2018, the 128-foot Panda is a traditional Indonesian phinisi welcoming 14 guests in luxuriously spacious cabins and generous surrounds. Offering up to four dives daily with their team of experienced Indonesian dive guides, the vessel has a large dive deck with individual setup areas, a spacious indoor dining and lounge area, and a sun deck to relax. Photographers are well catered for with a camera room and camera stations complete with numerous charging points and storage areas. The vessel provides a super relaxing environment, and the food is second to none with five meals daily catering to hungry divers across a variety of international cuisines. Alongside its sister vessels, Damai I and Damai II, the Panda offers numerous fixed and customizable itineraries throughout Indonesia’s many islands.
 

An aerial view of the gorgeous Panda liveaboard
 

About the Authors: Based in Melbourne, Australia, Anita Verde and Peter Marshall have a passion for the planet’s wild places, and through their images and narratives hope to inspire better appreciation and protection of the natural world. When not underwater, you’ll find them on a mountain somewhere. To see more of their work, please visit their website, www.summitstoseasphotography.com.