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A Fisheye For Critters in The Lembeh Strait
July 28, 2008 @ 02:00 AM (EST)
The apparently contradictory choice
of adding teleconverters to fisheyes to obtain arresting “wide-macro”
images has long been adopted by many rainforest and insect specialists
– notably Frans Lanting, the grand master of them all – while several
Japanese authors have pioneered its use in underwater photography since
the last decade. This unusual combination allows an extremely close
approach to small subjects, offering at the same time the opportunity
to keep a large area of surrounding environment or background in the
image frame – with little or no peripheral distortion and with the
added bonus of an absolutely spectacular depth of field. Simply put,
this technique allows the photographer to obtain truly unique and very
personal images which deeply contextualize the subject in its natural
habitat – something most macro lenses, such as the 60mm and the
much-loved 105mm, rarely permit in this age of reduced size digital
sensors.
I had long been intrigued by this
visionary technique since admiring many close-up and truly arresting
rainforest reptile and insect images taken by Lanting more than fifteen
years ago, but the long years of work undertaken to put together all
the images necessary to publish our books A Diver’s Guide to Underwater
Malaysia Macrolife and A Diver’s Guide to Reef Life had restricted us
to documentary-style profile shots to be strictly used for
identification purposes by other divers and photographers – a hugely
enjoyable job, which however prevented us to experiment with more
creative options.
Having just completed our new book,
A Diver’s Guide to the Art of Underwater Photography, we recently
decided to go back to the Lembeh Strait in Northern Sulawesi,
Indonesia, a favourite spot of ours for relaxing muck diving and
interesting new or rare species. Making our base at the much-loved
Kungkungan Bay Resort for the fourth time, I soon found myself
strangely and strongly dissatisfied by my 105mm, a lens which for many
years past had become an object of cult for me. Macro portraits seemed
all of a sudden to have lost visual power – creative apathy had set in.
Fiddling in frustration, I suddenly realized that going “wide-macro”
could offer the solution to the impasse – even if by definition this
technique, as suggested by our friend Alex Mustard, might actually end
up being severely restrictive in the choice of subjects and could also
create a lot of backscatter problems in the notoriously murky depths of
the Lembeh Strait. Anyway, there seemed to be no real choice – so I set
up my untried combo of the Nikon 10.5mm plus a 1.4 Kenko teleconverter
and had it mounted on my D200 behind the smallish polycarbonate
fish-eye dome of my Sea & Sea housing, which until now I had only
been using with the 10.5mm alone or the 12-24mm zoom, in both cases
with excellent results.
Results were immediately intriguing. I have always been a strong supporter of the use of fish-eyes in shooting close-up images but at the same time I have also been regularly rustrated by the strong peripheral distortion of the image created by the use of such extreme lenses. With the new combination I immediately found myself being able to get in physical contact with most subjects – actually brushing against Cockatoo waspfish, Devil scorpionfish, Snake eels, Frogfish and other critters – with the camera’s dome, getting much closer than it had ever been possible in the past while using the 105mm flat port. It was clear from the start that most species would not associate the approaching, reflective dome with an impending danger, and would not perceive it as the gaping mouth of a looming predator as it had always happened instead with the 105mm tubular port. A slow and careful approach allows exceptional proximity to shy subjects – now it became clear how rainforest photographers had obtained such spectacular images of tree frogs, gaping snakes and displaying praying mantises! A few attempts immediately showed that to obtain the best results in lighting and composition – particularly regarding later editorial use – requested the subject to be strongly positioned off-center, as the usual rules suggest. This is easier said than done however at such short distances and I suggest to focus on the subject’s eye by half-pressing the shutter lever while it is in the center of the frame, and then to carefully recompose while keeping the shutter lever half pressed. A slight peripheral distortion of the image becomes quite noticeable at extremely short focusing distances, so framing becomes an enjoyable challenge – a few degrees above or under the horizontal will generate dramatic differences in the final composition.
Since most subjects in the Lembeh
Strait are generally found lying camouflaged on the sandy, silty or
rubble bottom - and not on coral heads or walls as it would happen on a
pristine reef elsewhere – one has to literally dig the lower third of
the dome in the soft substrate to frame them more or less horizontally
and not from above. This is where a smallish polycarbonate fish-eye or
wide-angle dome wins hands down over a bigger and much more expensive
glass one – there’s little risk of scratching it while rubbing it
against the coarse sand or even small sharp pieces of coral rubble, and
even if this happens the optical effects are quite negligible since
small surface scratches can easily be erased later on (a glass dome
would be ruined for good!). This technique requests a delicate hand and
some nerve however, since sand ends up collecting around the main
O-ring grooves – a risky proposition. The remarkably short focusing
distances involved also present the very real risk of actually bumping
the dome into corals or rocks with serious risks of damage, so I
started closing up towards the chosen subject while holding my left
hand in front of the dome to protect it from car-crashing it somewhere
unintended.
Once the subject of composition had
been mastered, lighting was next. I tried some creative experimenting
here and there – holding the two Sea & Sea YS-120s close and in
front, for example, as in normal macrophotography, or above: but a few
trial shots immediately revealed the presence of unwanted parasite
reflections inside the dome (remember the addition of the 1.4
teleconverter changes all the curvature ratios between the lens and the
inner face of the dome) and an excess of backscatter “snowflaking” in
the background. I imagine the same problems – with possibly a slight
reduction in the presence of unwanted backscatter – would present
themselves in clear water too. My conclusion and suggestion is to use
both strobes in “wide-macro” as they would be in normal fish-eye
photography – widely spread and positioned as far behind the actual
dome as the length of the strobe arms would allow. We are talking about
an f2.8 10.5mm lens here, so there’s plenty of ambient light coming in
– even in the gloomy waters of Lembeh – and while shooting at ISO 200
with a -0.3 or even -0.7 exposure compensation on my Sea & Sea TTL
converter I could get perfectly exposed images at f11, f16 or f18,
ensuring razor-sharp focusing and exceptional depth of field in all
images. This is another wonderful side effect of the combo – one is
shooting in macro mode without having to worry too much about losing
sharpness and correct focus.
But what about the subject limitations I had been warned about? Again, it soon became apparent there was no need to worry – if correctly and creatively used, the fish-eye + teleconverter combination can successfully handle any stationary subject in the range size from a couple of inches to more than two feet in length, ie anything from a reasonably large nudibranch to a crocodile fish. It gives its most striking results in the middle range obviously – you’ll be able to get arresting shots of frogfish, lionfish, scorpionfish, sea snakes and especially octopus including Wonderpus and Mimic, all spectacularly contextualized in a wide expanse of their natural habitat, which will stretch all the way in the background, mostly in focus and – if you have been doing your homework and using diffusers – softly, uniformly lit (remember to always keep diffusers on both your strobes, this is an absolute must in such close-up work with digital cameras!). Stationary or semi-stationary subjects offer the best opportunities obviously, but I’ve got great results shooting small groupers or even fast-moving large wrasses with this technique – one is free to experiment given the broad latitude in the focused area.
Most importantly, however, to be
truly successful one has to combine the “macro frame of mind” (visually
focusing on the main subject) with the “fish-eye one” (ie taking in
consideration the background) - an interesting and engaging exercise
in creative flexibility which will presumably lead to more compelling
visual results and Doubilet-ish photographic results. I can only
imagine the striking images this solution could generate on colorful,
brightly-lit pristine coral reefs in clear blue water and I am
personally hooked - I cannot wait to try this wonderful and unsung
technique on some weird rainforest creatures during our next trip to
the tropics!
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Chuck Davis
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For over thirty years, Chuck Davis has worked professionally as a specialist in underwater photography in worldwide locations, including the Alaskan Arctic, Greenland and Antarctica. His motion picture credits include work on...
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