Science Meets Seafood, And The Result Is Delicious

While wild populations have still not fully recovered, abalone farmers met the worldwide demand by raising the mollusks sustainably in open-ocean pens, feeding them harvested kelp. With prices for live, farmed abalone at more than $20 per pound (not to mention a pronounced lack of flavor compared to those caught in the wild), the delicacy never regained its stature on local restaurant menus.

That may now change, thanks to "super abs," the first red abalone grown in Monterey Bay by introducing cultivated red seaweed into their diet. Developed in collaboration between Monterey Abalone Co. and Moss Landing Marine Laboratories, the new cultivation method results in red abalone that are healthier, faster-growing, brightly colored and richly flavored.

Highlands Inn in Carmel will showcase these "super abs" during a tasting series during the month of February (look for more restaurants to follow). Executive Chef Mark Ayers has created four appetizers. Among his creations are two traditional preparations — pan-fried red abalone with lemon and fresh parsley; and seared abalone with cauliflower purée and lobster butter — and two more creative dishes: abalone ceviche with endive and citrus "caviar"; and "steak and eggs" abalone with lacquered bacon and onions